The Other April

I've learned a lot of interesting and  life-changing things while being here at HighLand Farm. Some things I expected to learn, and other things I didn't. I know more than I ever thought I would about how (or how not) to care for Muscovy ducks, for example. I have a much more thorough understanding of the complexities of plant life and how it operates within the farm ecosystem. I've learned how to use some really good hand tools that liberate me from the need to use gas-powered ones, and I've developed a sense of the rhythm of the tide, and how it affects me. I've learned about Tibetan Buddhism, Shambhala, and I've developed an awareness practice that is changing how I interact with the world and its people and animals and plants and seasons.

All of these things, and many more, will change the course of my life forever. And I think it's great. It's everything I was hoping for and more.

One of the most enjoyable practical things I have learned is how to milk goats and make goat cheese, feta, and yogurt. Today, for the first time, I milked by myself and actually milked both goats out before they started kicking up a fuss. This is an accomplishment for a few reasons: 1) because until now my hands weren't strong enough to milk fast enough to finish before the goats finished their grain, 2) because even if my hands were strong enough, I wouldn't have known until now because usually I have company, so we take turns, and 3) because doing something like this on your own without help is a pretty liberating feeling.

Another reason the experience of milking on my own is so enjoyable is because I genuinely enjoy the goats. They have personalities-- calming spirits. They are really nice animals to be around. Just like a lot of people find that there is a therapeutic quality to being around horses, I enjoy being with goats. They speak to me. They understand. Interestingly enough, I am a Capricorn-- a goat. Go figure.

My favourite goat is April. I don't know why. It could be her long beard or her easy-to-milk teats, or it could be something else entirely. Probably the way she looks me in the eye when she stands up on the stall door and says, "Um, hello!! Where is my grain?"

So in celebration of April, and Bonnie, and Jumper too, I am going to tell you how we go about making some delicious raw goats milk cheeses here on the farm.

How to make Soft Goat Cheese and Goat's Milk Feta

1) Milk the goats. If you don't have this option, look for a source of raw milk in your area. It's not legal to sell it in most provinces, so you might want to offer a trade of some sort. If all else fails, organic pasteurized goat's milk from the farmer's market or a local farm will do!

2) In a really clean vessel mix goats milk and about one drop of rennet per litre. You can also add some active bacterial cultures to enhance that classic chevre flavour, but you will need to do some research here first-- this is a specific type of bacteria that might be hard to find. Some health food stores or local dairies might have either or both of these ingredients, or you can have your ingredients shipped to you from somewhere far away (e.g. Cultures for Health) . If you are a vegetarian, you will also have to find a source of non-animal rennet.

(Alternatively, it is possible to curdle the milk using lemon juice or vinegar, and make soft cheese that way. There are lots of web sites with instructions on how to do this, but the recipe requires heating the milk, which I don't want to do because then it won't be raw anymore. So animal rennet is fine with me!)

Once you add the rennet and bacteria, stir the milk really well with a very clean spoon, cover well, and leave for 24 hours.

3) When the milk has curdled the way it should, your cheese will resemble yogurt that has settled in its container. The yellowish liquid on top is whey, and it is really good for you! Now you need to strain off the whey and press the curds to get all of the whey off of them. You can do this is various ways. We use two yogurt or ice cream tubs, one with holes poked in it and one without. The holey one is placed in a bowl (to catch the whey) and the other one is used to press down the curds so that the whey drains out of the holes. Another method is to use a strainer and several layers of cheesecloth. Simply pour off as much whey as possible, and then transfer the cheese into the lined strainer to let it drain. For this method, you will need to find something the same size as the strainer to press it with.

You'll have a lot of whey. Keep some for making brine, if you plan to make feta. If you can, use it to soak dried beans, or add it to another recipe. Alternatively, you can cool it in the fridge and drink it. I'm not a fan, but some people love it. If you like buttermilk, you might like whey.

4) Leave the curds to drain without pressing for a day or so (keeping them covered to keep out airborne bacteria), and then start pressing. We usually fill the upper container with water to help press out more liquid, and we make a point of pushing on it a few times to squeeze out a bit more water. The amount of moisture will determine the texture of your cheese-- more liquid means a softer cheese, and less means more crumbly or firm, depending on how you store it.

5) Once you feel your cheese is dry enough, the next step depends on what you want your finished product to be.

Goat's Milk Feta: Try to get the cheese quite dry by pressing out a lot of the whey. Then, transfer your cheese to a salt brine, and make sure the cheese is entirely covered in brine with no exposure to air. Store in an airtight container in a cool place (the cellar or the fridge) for at least a week.

The amount of salt in your brine is up to you, but generally a 10 to 15% salt solution is recommended. Try about 1/3 cup of salt to 2 cups liquid, and then experiment to see what you prefer. You can make your brine using salt and water, or salt and some of the reserved whey.

Soft Goat Cheese: Don't worry about getting the cheese quite as dry-- you may not even need to press it. When you feel that it is the texture you want, transfer it to an airtight storage container and shake some salt (kosher if possible) on top to suck out a bit more moisture and keep a firm shape. You may also want to season it with cracked pepper. Let it age for a few days, and enjoy!

Herbed Goat Cheese: After draining, transfer the cheese to a bowl lined with fresh or dried herbs of your choice. I experimented with fresh basil. Store the cheese in this container until you are ready to serve, and then turn the cheese out onto a serving dish so that the herbs are displayed on top.

For herbed goat cheese, I have heard various opinions on when during the process to herb the cheese. You could add the herbs as soon as you start draining to incorporate more flavour, wait until the cheese is partially dry, or not add the herbs until the very end, when you are ready to store the cheese. It's up to you. Give each one a try and let me know what you prefer.

And that is all I know so far about making goat cheese. Thanks April and Bonnie, for a delicious gourmet treat! Yum.